Roger Dubuis was, first and foremost, a watchmaker. So without further ado let’s get into this story! Roger Dubuis, From Watchmaker To Brand For those with an eye toward collecting these watches, it should be noted that the Breguet Numeral dials only appear in the reference H40, which is a pity because a 37 mm case with a Breguet dial would be a dream come true.įor me A Collected Man has become the place to source one of these amazing watches and I would also like to applaud them for the wonderful work in documenting the history of these wonderful timepieces. The thick case with integrated lugs and concave bezel, and of course the screw down caseback are all also extremely reminiscent of the Tasti Tondi. Says Montanari, “Indeed, the Hommage chronographs feature pushers that are almost identical to those found on the Tasti Tondi right down to their fluted decoration and priapically domed shape. It was as if Patek had introduced you to a charismatic sexy cousin, which was clearly Dubuis’ intent. Says Montanari, ‘Also look at the fonts that he chose for the tachymeter and the subdials, the twisting guilloché and other patterns as well as the highly stylised leaf hands everything had a slightly more Latin, expressive charm but very importantly without being Baroque.” But Dubuis didn’t just copy them he elevated the design language of the dials with beautiful touches such as applied dots for the minutes.” Also unique is Dubuis combination of applied Breguet 12, 5, 6 and 7 indexes with thick applied pointed stick indexes. Says Montanari, “Sure the inspiration is clear. Says Auro Montanari aka John Goldberger author of Patek Philippe Steel Watches, “For modern chronograph design the Roger Dubuis with Breguet numerals is one of the best.” These dials are strongly inspired by the highly coveted Breguet numerals dials found in the reference 1. Because it is specifically in the 40 mm H40 reference that you find Roger Dubuis’ Breguet numeral dials which are possibly the most beautiful modern chronograph dials in recent memory. But it is the reference H40 that I consider to be Roger Dubuis’ true master work of design. You can turn to page 66 to see how closely the Roger Dubuis watches resemble these. The H34 and H37 took considerable inspiration from the Sector of Scientific dial Patek Reference 130s. If you desire to take a closer look at this precious timepiece, don't hesitate to contact us and make an appointment.The Hommage was made in three different sizes: the 34mm H34, the 37mm H37 and the 40mm H40. It has been fitted by a custom made grey strap to contrast well with the dial. The watch comes with its original box and manual. That is why Mr Dubuis felt it was crucial to have the same hallmark. At the time of production, it was mainly Patek Philippe movements that carried the Seal of Geneva. The watch bears the Seal of Geneva and was regulated by Roger Dubuis himself. The watch is very easy to set, there are 3 pushers on the case to sync the perpetual calendar. Red is the leap year, yellow is the first year, green the second and blue the third year. The years are indicated with a window color indicator divided in 4 colors. In watchmaking, "perpetual calendar" describes a calendar mechanism that correctly displays the date on the watch 'perpetually', taking into account the different lengths of the months as well as leap years At 12, the day of the week and the month indication and between 2 and 3 a window year indicator. The dial is bright white lacquered and contrast well with the perpetual calendar. This Roger Dubuis Hommage Perpetual Calendar Window H37 has a date indication between 4 and 5. The beauty and complexity of the movement is revealed through an engraved sapphire case-back, p owered by the calibre RD5739. The white gold case is very distinct with its polished, concave bezel and polished lugs. For each variant in the series, there were no more than 28 made. Around the year 2000 Roger Dubuis produced only 28 of these watches. The H37 Window Perpetual Calendar presented today is o ne of the earlier pieces created by the legendary watchmaker, before Roger Dubuis became a Richemont owned brand name in 2008. Roger Dubuis today has very little to do with the watchmaker himself but when he created the Hommage collection, you see a genuine reflection of the man himself.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |